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Wooden churches belong to the hills

Romania lists 1,256 wooden churches as historic monuments. Between 200 and 500 metres above sea level, nearly one locality in ten still has one. On the plain, one in ninety. The curve rises the same way on both sides of the Carpathians.

1,256wooden churches on the list of historic monuments
10.8churches per 100 localities at 300–400 metres
1.1churches per 100 localities below 100 metres
18.2in Gorj, a county of the old kingdom: more than Cluj, which has 14.1

A ring of hills around the mountains

The oldest buildings in a Romanian village are made of squared logs laid one on another. They have lasted three centuries because someone replaced the roof every second generation, and the national list of historic monuments now holds 1,256 of them, each tied to the settlement it stands in.

Plotted, they do not cover the country. They gather in a ring around the outside of the Carpathians: Maramureș, Sălaj and Cluj in the north, then under the mountains through Hunedoara, Gorj and Vâlcea, then north again through Vaslui and Suceava. The Wallachian plain and Dobruja are almost empty. So is the mountain crest.

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altitude, 0–2,000 m Select a point for details.

Three quarters of the churches are placed at village level rather than building level: the point marks the settlement, not the churchyard gate.

The band has a single peak

For every 100-metre band of altitude I counted how many localities Romania has there and how many listed wooden churches fall to them. The result climbs quickly, holds high for three bands and falls away.

The same shape appears whichever denominator is used: localities, people, or the total of listed churches in the band.
Listed wooden churches by altitude band
Altitude (m)LocalitiesChurchesPer 100 localitiesPer 100,000 peopleShare of listed churches (%)
0–992,839321.10.34.2
100–1993,8061824.83.317.5
200–2993,48135910.38.934.4
300–3992,93031710.89.533.2
400–4991,89519510.310.626.4
500–5991,075898.38.720.9
600–699731405.54.216.9
700–799607193.15.323.5
800–899402112.76.226.2
900–99922973.17.950.0
1,000–1,09914242.811.050.0
1,100–1,1994912.08.350.0

The highest bands hold few localities, so one building more or less moves their rate a long way.

The border shows, but explains little

Public memory ties the wooden church to Transylvania and Maramureș, and the raw figure supports it: Transylvania, the Banat, Crișana and Maramureș hold 9.03 wooden churches per 100 localities, while Wallachia, Oltenia, Moldavia and Dobruja hold 5.72.

The counties contradict it at once. Gorj, a county of the old Romanian kingdom, has 18.2 wooden churches per 100 localities — more than Cluj with 14.1 and Bihor with 11.5. Vaslui has 12.5. And when the rate is drawn by altitude band separately for the two halves of the country, both curves have the same shape: rising to 300–400 metres, falling away after 600.

Counties with the most wooden churches per 100 localities
CountyLocalitiesWooden churchesPer 100 localities
Maramureș3418926.1
Sălaj3156921.9
Gorj63011518.2
Cluj5417614.1
Vaslui5707112.5
Bihor5125911.5
Mureș5796611.4
Vâlcea947929.7
Hunedoara695608.6
Mehedinți442388.6

How much of the gap between the two halves comes from the terrain? I recalculated both rates as if each half had its localities spread across altitude in the same way. The difference narrows from 9.03 against 5.72 to 8.38 against 6.03: terrain accounts for 29% of it. The rest stays. At equal altitude the western half still has nearly 40% more, and the data here does not say why.

Choose “The 1918 border” on the map to see the two halves coloured separately. The points stay where they are: the line runs through the middle of the ring without breaking it.

Rainfall rises with altitude

Annual rainfall gives the same ordering: 0.4 churches per 100 localities in the 400–500 mm band, 5.1 at 500–600, 9.1 at 600–700 and 10.2 at 700–800. The driest band is the Bărăgan plain and Dobruja; the wettest, the sub-Carpathian hills.

The two explanations cannot be fully separated, because in Romania altitude and rainfall rise together: across localities the correlation is 0.61. What can be tested is whether damp shortens a building’s life. If it were the main cause of decay, churches in wet places would be younger on average, the old ones having rotted. They are older: the median year of construction is 1779 in the 500–600 mm band and 1717 in the 800–900 mm band.

Listed wooden churches by annual rainfall band
Rainfall (mm/yr)LocalitiesChurchesPer 100 localities
400–49992940.4
500–5998,4534315.1
600–6996,3475799.1
700–7991,92919710.2
800–899379338.7
900–999144128.3

The church band is the oak band

The European forest inventory holds 13,840 records for Romania, each with a species and a position. Grouped by altitude, the three species groups fall into storeys: oak has its median at 263 metres and nine records in ten below 554; beech has its median at 700 metres; fir and spruce at 1,008.

The median wooden church sits at 322 metres. It stands in the oak storey, and the peak of its curve falls where oak still dominates the woodland and beech is only beginning.

oak beech fir and spruce

The storeys of Romanian woodland, measured from 4,843 field records of the three species groups. Oak reaches down to the Danube; conifers begin where the wooden churches thin out.

The plain is the exception: oak grows there too, and wooden churches almost do not. Lowland woodland was cleared for the plough, and the villages there built their churches in masonry earlier. The presence of oak alone does not explain the empty plain.

What the churches say about their own timber

Romanian Wikipedia carries 1,316 articles on the country's wooden churches. 847 of them match a building on the monuments list, and 186 state what the walls are made of: oak in 135 cases, fir or spruce in 51.

The ratio holds across every province. In Maramureș, where the popular image is of a fir church, the texts give 11 to 3 for oak. In the Banat and in Wallachia every recorded mention is oak. Fir becomes the majority only above 800 metres, where the ratio inverts to 3 against 5 — too few cases to carry weight alone, but pointing the same way as the woodland.

oak fir and spruce

Wall timber as the articles record it, for provinces with at least eight cases. The figures on the right are oak / fir.
A massive hewn ground beam with annual rings visible in the sawn end, laid directly on the earth beneath the church wall.
Dragu, Sălaj county. The hewn sill the wall stands on. Of the 18 articles that name the timber of the sills, 16 say oak. Photo: Țetcu Mircea Rareș, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0 RO.
The corner of a wooden church: squared logs notched over one another with the ends projecting, annual rings visible.
Dragu, Sălaj county. The corner joint, log ends left projecting. The dovetail appears in 51 articles and the straight notch in 13 — too rarely to map. Photo: Țetcu Mircea Rareș, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0 RO.

When a text names both species, they are not in the same part of the building. In ten cases an oak sill carries fir walls. The heavy, rot-resistant timber sits at the bottom, where the building touches the ground, and fir is used higher up. The recorded cases are few — ten — but they all point the same way.

Log wall of a church in Gorj, with a carved rope moulding in relief and a corner joint.
Lelești, Gorj county. The log wall with its carved moulding, at 311 metres. Gorj holds 115 listed wooden churches, more than any other county in the country. Photo: Țetcu Mircea Rareș, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.5.

Two roofs, one band

The silhouette changes a great deal from one end of the ring to the other, more than the altitude or the timber does. In the north the bell tower rises over the nave and ends in a sharp spire. In Gorj the belfry sits low over the porch, and the roof reaches almost to the ground above an open verandah.

The wooden church at Ieud, with a steep shingle roof and a tall tower ending in a sharp spire, in a graveyard of crosses.
Ieud, Maramureș county. The lower church, at 432 metres, in the county with the highest density in the country: 89 listed wooden churches to 341 localities. Photo: Bogdan Ilieș, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.5.
The wooden church at Hobița in Gorj county: a low building with an open porch and a broad shingle roof, in a village graveyard.
Hobița, Gorj county. At 230 metres and 304 kilometres from Ieud, on the other side of the pre-1918 border. Both stand inside the 200–500 metre band. Photo: Țetcu Mircea Rareș, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.5.

Roof pitch is not recorded anywhere at the scale of the whole list: none of the 1,316 articles gives a figure in degrees, and the monuments list does not describe the buildings. The difference between the two silhouettes above is visible, but it cannot be counted across the country.

Your village

Type the name of a Romanian locality to see how high it sits, how much rain falls there in a year, and which listed wooden church is nearest.

    The list holds 18,214 localities from the GeoNames gazetteer, hamlets included. The distance is measured in a straight line, and the church may be over a hill rather than along a road.

    What survives is what was built last

    Of the 1,252 churches with a date, 697 belong to the eighteenth century and 385 to the nineteenth. Only 155 are seventeenth century or older. Timber is replaced: on the same spot, in the same graveyard, a village built more than once, and the list records the last building rather than the first church.

    The century recorded in the list for the 1,252 dated churches.

    84 of the articles tied to a listed church say it was brought from somewhere else: bought from a neighbouring village, taken apart, carted and raised again. The oldest date in the list, the fourteenth century, belongs to one of these: the church at Putna, brought by tradition from Volovăț.

    The wooden church at Hoteni, with a shingle roof and a slender tower, seen from below against a clear sky.
    Hoteni, Maramureș county. One of the churches moved from one village to another. A log building can be numbered, taken down and raised again, and in this ring of hills it was done often. Photo: Mircea Rareș Țetcu, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.5.

    How the counting was done

    • The churches. From the transcription of the list of historic monuments I kept the 1,256 entries whose name contains both “church” and “wood” in Romanian and which have coordinates. A quarter carry their own coordinates; the rest take the point of their locality.
    • The denominator. 18,214 localities with coordinates and a population figure, from the GeoNames gazetteer. The gazetteer includes hamlets, and hamlets are denser in hill country than on the plain; that is why the same rate was recalculated against population and, separately, against the total of listed churches in each band. The shape does not change. The 1,256 churches stand in 1,149 distinct localities, so the rate per 100 localities and the share of localities holding at least one nearly coincide.
    • Altitude and rain. Every point was read from a 30 arc-second terrain model and from the WorldClim map of mean annual rainfall at 5 arc-minutes. At 5 arc-minutes a cell is nearly 9 kilometres across, so the value belongs to the area rather than to the village.
    • Standardisation. Each half's rate was recalculated by applying its own band rates to the shared distribution of localities.
    • The woodland. From the EU-Forest inventory I kept the Romanian records, converted their coordinates from the European projection into degrees and read their altitude from the same terrain model. The inventory describes today's woodland; the forest the beams came from two centuries ago was wider, especially on the plain.
    • Timber and joints. From the article texts I extracted species mentions tied to a part of the building (“oak beams”, “oak sills”, “built of fir”). The articles cover part of the list, and those describing the material are the best documented, so the ratio of 135 to 51 describes the buildings that were written about rather than the whole stock.

    What the available sources cannot support: a national map of roof pitch or of joint type. The first appears in no source covering the country; the second is recorded for 64 buildings out of 1,256.

    Sources