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The Cerna Valley, Caraș-Severin county

What does the water at Herculane taste like?

The same great hydrothermal system the Romans used almost two millennia ago still works under Herculane. But there is no single “Herculane water”: Hercules emerges with almost no hydrogen sulphide, while at Neptun or Decebal the water is far more mineralised and sulphurous. One system. Different waters.

  • 153dated Roman altar to the gods and powers of the waters
  • 32.6–58.6 °Cmedians of the six springs compared here, 1984–1995
  • 6 watersdistinct chemical profiles in a single valley

The Romans: the proof is in stone

Two stones say two different things: one about healing, one about a safe return.

The ancient name of the place is unsettled. Tabula Peutingeriana gives an Ad Mediam on the Roman road: the map project and Fodorean place it at Herculane, the Princeton encyclopedia, after Tudor, at the Mehadia camp — with a question mark. The cult itself is beyond doubt: around the hot springs grew a bathing cult under Hercules, Aesculapius and Hygieia, with temples, baths, altars and statues.

The formula “Ad Aquas Herculi Sacras” lives on in local tradition — the Izvorul Tămăduirii fountain carries it — and an 1817 Latin plaque joins “Thermas Herculanas Ad Mediam”. The first is modern tradition, the second Habsburg Latin: neither proves an official ancient name.

The healing

CIL III 1561 = IDR III/1 55

Aesculapio et Hygiae
pro salute Iuniae Cyrillae
quod a longa infirmitate
virtute aquarum numinis sui
revocaverunt —
tutor bonis administrandis eius
votum solvit libens merito.

To Aesculapius and Hygieia, for the health of Iunia Cyrilla: because they snatched her back from a long infirmity through the power of the waters and of their divinity, the guardian of her estate fulfilled his vow.

Marble, 73 × 37 × 30 cm; recorded set into the Cerna bridge wall (Fodorean 2012).

The safe return

CIL III 1562 = IDR III/1 56 · AD 153

Dis et Numinibus Aquarum —
Ulpius Secundinus, Marius Valens,
Pomponius Haemus, Iulius Carus,
Valerius Valens: legati Romam
ad consulatum Severiani clarissimi viri
missi, incolumes reversi, ex voto.

To the gods and powers of the waters: five delegates sent to Rome for the consulship of Severianus, returned safely home, fulfilled their vow.

Found in 1736 (Fodorean 2012); recorded at the Băile Herculane museum (IDR). Letters added perhaps in the 18th century can also be read on the stone (SAA 2017).

The Herculane corpus counts 19 inscriptions in IDR III/1, nos. 54–68, plus later finds; RAN currently holds 20 votive inscriptions. Six Hercules statues belong with the springs; in 1737 alone seven were found. Some pieces reached Vienna — the Veteranus altar (CIL III 1560) is now in the Nationalbibliothek — and a ship of antiquities sank off Pest in 1775.

No ancient recipe survives: the stones speak of healing, not milligrams, and the exact taste of Roman water cannot be reconstructed. After the Aurelianic withdrawal, bathing use can no longer be traced in documents down to the Habsburg era: the 2015 dig found Roman basins with an early-medieval trace above — activity, not proof of an unbroken cure.

The 1774 plan of the Roman baths at Herculane
The 1774 plan of the Roman baths at Herculane: the survey that kept on paper what was left of the ancient thermae.Caraș-Severin National Archives, via RAN; Wikimedia Commons, public domain

The Habsburgs: building and destroying at once

To save the baths, they lost the thermae.

After the Peace of Passarowitz (1718), the Banat passed under Vienna, and from 1736 General Hamilton rebuilt the baths — razing whatever stood in the way: RAN says the works destroyed Roman basins, conduits and sanctuaries to make room for new construction, and some ruins were blown up with explosives. The recovered antiquities left for Vienna.

The Herkulesbad access road, an 1824 lithograph
The Herkulesbad access road, an 1824 lithograph: the early imperial resort, before the great eclectic ensembles.Drawing by Erminy, lithograph by Adolph Kunike (1777–1838), Wikimedia Commons, public domain

On 1 October 1817, Francis I stopped at Herculane; a Latin plaque records his visit, and the resort officially received the name “Băile Herculane”. The 19th century built in stages: a late-baroque plan in the 1700s, a classicist nucleus around Hercules Square, then the Casino ensemble — second half of the century, architect Wilhelm von Doderer — and the Neptune Baths, 1883–1886, architect Ignác Alpár: both eclectic.

On 19 July 1852, Franz Joseph visited the resort; under Tatarczy Károly's enterprise it then took off. The line “the most beautiful resort on the continent” is attributed to the emperor in later tradition — no primary wording has been found. Empress Elisabeth stayed here too, and her diary gives the resort considerable attention.

The Hercules statue in Hercules Square, an 1847 bronze
The Hercules statue in the square that bears his name: an 1847 bronze.Photo: Kvmgz, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Herculane paradox: the modern resort rose by partly erasing the ancient thermae — and today specialists and volunteers are trying to save precisely the imperial baths that replaced them.

The laboratory: from stone to milligrams

What does the water taste like? Which water? Six springs, six chemical profiles.

The Romans left votive stones. In 1773, Heinrich Johann Nepomuk Crantz published the chemical analyses of the waters in Vienna — Analyses Thermarum Herculanarum Daciae Traiani. The 20th century brought systematic hydrogeology, and the reference synthesis is Povară–Simion–Marin 2008, with monitoring data compiled from 1984–1995.

Hercules

32.6 °C

Measured values from 17 to 53.5 °C · 209 samples

  • Mineralisation1.6 g/l
  • H2Sabsent
  • Sodium307.7 mg/l
  • Calcium4.5 mg/l
  • Chlorides799 mg/l

The mildest glass: lukewarm, lightly salty, no hydrogen sulphide. The highest measured flow and the most changeable — its temperature swings between 17 and 53 degrees depending on how much cold water mixes in.

Medians 1984–1995, Table 4 (Povară et al. 2008). n = 209 at Hercules; 27, 31, 21, 27, 25 at the others. Table flow rates are from 1972, and temperatures and TDS come from different institutions: a compiled dossier, not a single campaign.

At reservoir scale the waters are chloride-rich and sodium-dominated; southwards, mineralisation and hydrogen sulphide generally increase — but each spring has its own mix of deep thermal water and cold karst water. Hercules is strongly diluted, with H2S absent; the southern sources are Na–Ca–Cl type, with bromides, iodides and sulphides.

From K–Na and K–Mg ratios, the Giggenbach model estimates a deep equilibrium temperature of 170–190 °C: a geochemical estimate, not a thermometer reading. And the system is sensitive: test pumping at Neptun IV dried the Diana group springs to disappearance. Chemical composition is not medical advice — cures use the developed sources, under guidance.

Today: what is being saved

The Neptune Baths (1883–1886, Alpár) are out of service and severely degraded, with three pre-collapse sectors — but not abandoned: HerculaneProject has carried out emergency interventions in stages (2019, 2020–2022 maintenance, 2022 scaffolding) and is running a reactivation project, with the legal situation still unresolved.

The Neptune Baths and the cast-iron bridge over the Cerna
The Neptune Baths and the cast-iron bridge over the Cerna: out-of-service imperial eclecticism, with emergency interventions under way.Photo: Kelenbp, Wikimedia Commons, public domain

Under Hotel Roman, completed in 1975, survive 3 cabins and 4 basins of the old Roman Bath, with a Hercules relief carved into the rock. And Herculane is today the only Romanian destination in the Roman Thermal Spas of Europe network (9 destinations) and an active EHTTA member since 2023.

Where
The Cerna Valley, between the Cerna and Mehedinți mountains
Chemistry data
Medians 1984–1995, Table 4 (Povară et al. 2008)
Networks
Roman Thermal Spas of Europe · EHTTA (since 2023)
  1. 153 The delegates' altar: Dis et Numinibus Aquarum.
  2. 2nd–3rd c. Bathing cult: Hercules, Aesculapius, Hygieia; 19 inscriptions in IDR III/1.
  3. 271 The Aurelianic withdrawal; the documentary thread is lost.
  4. 1718 Passarowitz: the Banat under Vienna.
  5. 1736 Hamilton rebuilds the baths and demolishes the thermae.
  6. 1773 Crantz publishes the chemical analyses, in Vienna.
  7. 1774 The plan of the Roman ruins.
  8. 1775 The antiquities ship sinks off Pest.
  9. 1817 Francis I; the official name “Băile Herculane”.
  10. 1847 The Hercules statue.
  11. 1852 Franz Joseph's visit (19 July).
  12. 1860–1885 The Casino ensemble, architect Doderer.
  13. 1883–1886 The Neptune Baths, architect Alpár.
  14. 1920 Trianon leaves Herculane in Romania.
  15. 1975 The Roman complex, incorporating the old bath.
  16. 1984–1995 The monitoring compiled by Povară et al.
  17. 2023 Herculane joins EHTTA.
  18. today The Neptune Baths, a rescue site.

Sources

The stones speak of healing and gratitude; the lab speaks of sodium, chlorides and H2S. One does not prove the other.

Corpora and repertories

  • Boda–Timoc–Bunoiu 2017: the texts of the two stones and the Herculane corpus. saa.uaic.ro: SAA 23.1
  • Fodorean 2012: Ad Mediam–Herculane; the objects (Cerna bridge, Nationalbibliothek, 1736). Ephemeris Napocensis XXII
  • RAN 50932.01: 20 votive inscriptions; 7 statues in 1737; Hamilton; the 1775 ship; the 2015 dig. ran.cimec.ro: 50932.01
  • The Tabula Peutingeriana project: Ad Mediam. tp-online: Ad Mediam · Princeton: Mehadia (“Ad Mediam”). Perseus: Mehadia
  • IDR III/1, nos. 54–68: the modern corpus of the inscriptions (print reference).

Studies

Current data