mariuscomper.uk Română
  1. The table
  2. Your county
  3. Fields
  4. Osoi
  5. Bârsești
  6. Pellagra
  7. Limits
  8. Sources

Romanian village food · surviving figures from 1742 to 1942

By 1850 maize already ruled the fields of Moldavia. What the village ate afterwards was weighed only a handful of times

In Putna in 1850, maize covered almost 70 times more land than millet; only on the south-eastern plain did millet hold on much longer. What reached the plate was weighed only from 1906, in a few villages and regions. All of it is below: on a table, on the map of the 32 counties of 1892, and in one week in Bârsești.

  • 6.1%of the land sown with maize or millet in 1892 was millet
  • 74% → 25%of calories came from maize in Osoi, before and after families were given bread (1934)
  • 63meals logged in three households in Bârsești, in 1938

What went into the pot, to scale

Each object’s area is proportional to the printed grams per consumption unit per day. Flour is flour, not polenta.

Period
A day’s food, drawn to scaleEach object’s area is proportional to the printed grams.maize flour762 gbread, wheat94 gsour soup, brine—potatoes78 gbeans86 ggreens, onion71 gmilk, butter16 gcheese0.7 geggs0.5 gmeat34 gfruit22 gwine, spirits80 gfat, oil10 gsugar1.6 grice, barley16 gwhat 100 g looks like

Osoi, period I: Christmas fast

30 Nov–24 Dec 1933

762 gmaize flour
94 gbread and wheat flour

3,941 kcal per consumption unit per day; 74.3% of calories came from maize.

S40, table 53, p. 187 (Osoi, 22 families chosen by doctors); S34, pp. 221–224 (Arsura). A printed dash is a missing value, not zero. Wine and sour soup are in grams of liquid.

What survives on the table, 1700–1950

Timeline 1700–1950 with the surviving sourcesThree lanes: fields, plates and meals, pellagra. Between 1742 and 1850 no field or plate figure appears.107 yearsno checkedrecordFields: hectares sownPlates and mealsPellagra: reported cases1850–1860: Putna and Dorohoi1871–1875: national1900–1903: national1904–1915: national1892: 32 counties1908: 32 counties1933–1935: 22 families in Osoi1742: Moldavian monasteries receive “bread” in merțe1849–1850: Secu monastery accounts1880: described ration of estate workers1895: medical reports in Igiena țăranului român1898: Muntele circumscription, Suceava1906: Arsura and Epureni, Fălciu (Nicolae Lupu)1909–1910: communes in Dolj1931: one household in Cornova1936: three communes in Caraș1938: Bârsești, Nerej; Argeș, Romanați, Turda1942: Tarcău1877–1878: Piatra-Neamț hospital1888–1899: cases registered in the Kingdom1909–1910: Dolj1912: counties1917: counties1927: counties1933: Dobreni, Neamț1940: 58 localities in Neamț170017501800185019001950

measured households or samplesdescriptions, rations and institutional accounts

cereals: bread, polentaother cereals (wheat, barley, rye)meat and other animal productsmilk productsvegetables and fruitfruitbeans, peas, potatoesanimal fatsvegetable fatssweetsalcoholeverything else

Osoi, winter 1933

Osoi, Iași county, 30 November–24 December 1933 (Christmas fast). 3,941 kcal per consumption unit per day; 74.3% of calories came from maize.

  • maize · 74.3%
  • everything else · 25.7%

Families chosen by doctors, 20 of 22 with at least one pellagra case. Calories are the authors’ calculations per consumption unit, not per person. The “everything else” part is not broken down in the table. Source: S40.

Each plate shows how a household or a region split its calories, by the authors’ calculations. Other sources give grams or lists of dishes, not shares: they are on the ruler, without a plate.

Your county: pick where your family came from

The map shows the 32 counties of the Kingdom in 1879–1913. Click a county or pick it from the list: you see what was sown there in 1892 and what was written about the table there, or about the nearest table described.

Map year
ArgeșBacăuBotoșaniBrăilaBuzăuConstanțaCovurluiDoljDorohoiDâmbovițaFălciuGorjIalomițaIașiIlfovMehedințiMuscelNeamțOltPrahovaPutnaRomanRomanațiRâmnicu SăratSuceavaTecuciTeleormanTulceaTutovaVasluiVlașcaVâlceaArsura, 1906Bârsești, 1938Nerej, ~1938Osoi, 1933–35Stoeșești, 1938Muntele circ., 1898Dolj, 1909–10Fălciu, 1895Ialomița, 1895Șomuz–Moldova, 1895Tarcău, 1942Neamț county, 1940Nemțu, 1877–78Argeș, 1938Romanați, 1938Turda, 1938Cornova, 1931Caraș, 1936
0%56%+millet of maize+millet○ village, approximate position◇ county or region centre Romania 1926–1939

Colour: millet’s share of land sown with maize or millet, 1891–1892. Circles are villages named by sources, at approximate positions; diamonds are a county or region centre. The grey outline shows Romania in 1926–1939, so places outside the Kingdom of that date sit on land.

Pick a county on the map or from the list.

Table of all 32 counties
County (historical)Maize 1892, haWheat 1892, haMillet 1892, haMillet, % of maize+milletMaize 1908, haMillet 1908, haBelow 1.54 m, 1879–83p. 1892
Argeș57,89931,7459611.6%57,873169519 / 9,284141
Bacău48,55711,611180.0%49,476—190 / 8,300142
Botoșani43,62834,838100.0%52,296—84 / 6,952143
Brăila49,92242,5329,04415.3%53,3753,77162 / 4,007144
Buzău66,02747,2025,0097.0%78,6013,279271 / 8,917145
Constanța24,69438,42131,44956.0%58,93713,041—146
Covurlui48,16620,0401,2452.5%49,223549132 / 4,530147
Dolj143,000148,0277040.5%176,615205822 / 18,268149
Dorohoi46,93431,956270.1%53,904—92 / 5,272150
Dâmbovița59,51535,8704820.8%58,420721289 / 9,340148
Fălciu36,93412,9402050.6%35,3719158 / 3,824151
Gorj50,67011,107290.1%52,1995463 / 8,323152
Ialomița90,292126,87731,73726.0%105,52116,281129 / 6,619153
Iași41,04925,027350.1%55,523113224 / 7,572154
Ilfov95,876123,09018,89116.5%104,1576,004458 / 14,081155
Mehedinți89,43273,0562140.2%95,516—605 / 9,923156
Muscel18,0441,188260.1%16,88579311 / 4,345157
Neamț32,10511,6621920.6%29,43830156158
Olt66,31170,5353280.5%68,784113138 / 5,521159
Prahova58,78138,8411,7732.9%60,8071,168353 / 11,640160
Putna32,9699,9651470.4%38,76343158 / 4,219161
Roman34,12116,27540.0%31,712—127 / 5,229163
Romanați83,643104,7882,2962.7%95,566706191 / 8,822164
Râmnicu Sărat59,83336,2033,5655.6%68,3451,414149 / 5,807162
Suceava28,7409,26970.0%26,437194 / 4,654165
Tecuci46,11019,9421580.3%50,729121155 / 4,367166
Teleorman111,091142,6011,0400.9%128,213470320 / 9,081167
Tulcea16,48643,3574,76522.4%29,3243,511—168
Tutova41,13021,8854231.0%42,81219227 / 6,612169
Vaslui35,74017,902160.0%39,94479117 / 5,182170
Vlașca111,118127,6672,6822.4%104,3761,458206 / 8,148172
Vâlcea53,6269,653480.1%51,17320468 / 9,898171

Source: S29 (1891–1892), S242 p. 141 (1908), S31 (height, 1879–1883). Area sown, not consumption. A dash means the printed table gives no figure.

Millet did not vanish at once: it stayed on the plain

The oldest field figures in this research are from 1850, for Putna and Dorohoi. Millet then held 1.4% and 3.9% of the land sown with maize or millet. In the 1870s millet held 6–7% of the land sown with maize or millet. In 1903 it was 4%. From 1904 to 1915 it sits at 1–4%, with one exception, 1907 (6%).

Millet’s share of land sown with maize or millet, 1850–1915Putna 1850: 1.4%. National: 6–7% in the 1870s, 1–4% after 1904.0%3%6%9%1850186018701880189019001910Of every 100 ha of maize or millet, how many were millet1850: 1.4%1851: 3.6%1852: 1.8%1853: 2.4%1854: 1.9%1855: 1.0%1858: 1.9%1859: 1.5%1863.5: 2.1%1867.5: 0.8%1850: 3.9%1851: 2.3%1852: 1.5%1853: 1.9%1854: 2.7%1855: 1.6%1856: 2.5%1857: 1.4%1858: 1.2%1859: 1.4%1860: 1.7%1871: 6.6%1872: 7.2%1873: 6.6%1874: 6.1%1875: 6.0%1900: 7.6%1901: 4.8%1903: 3.8%1904: 3.5%1905: 2.0%1906: 2.5%1907: 6.3%1908: 2.6%1909: 2.8%1910: 1.4%1911: 1.9%1912: 2.1%1913: 2.5%1914: 1.8%1915: 2.4%1892: 6.1%1892: 32 counties 6.1%DorohoiPutnaNational1907Breaks = years without a figure in the source · three different tables
Putna and Dorohoi: Ionescu de la Brad (S37, S19). National: Băicoianu 1908 (S241) to 1903, Statistical Yearbook 1915–1916 (S255) from 1904; 1902 is left out because its maize figure contradicts the 1908 yearbook. Territory is not verified from one source to the next. Units: fălci for Putna and Dorohoi, hectares otherwise; the share does not depend on the unit.

In 1892 millet was a crop of the south-eastern plain. In Constanța it covered more land than maize (31,449 ha against 24,694 ha), in Ialomița 26%, and in Tulcea, Ilfov and Brăila between 15% and 22%. In 19 of the 32 counties it was below 1%.

Millet, % of land under maize or millet, 1891–1892 (bar) and 1908 (black tick)

  • Constanța56.0%
  • Ialomița26.0%
  • Tulcea22.4%
  • Ilfov16.5%
  • Brăila15.3%
  • Buzău7.0%
  • Râmnicu Sărat5.6%
  • Prahova2.9%
  • Romanați2.7%
  • Covurlui2.5%
The other 22 counties
  • Vlașca2.4%
  • Argeș1.6%
  • Tutova1.0%
  • Teleorman0.9%
  • Dâmbovița0.8%
  • Neamț0.6%
  • Fălciu0.6%
  • Dolj0.5%
  • Olt0.5%
  • Putna0.4%
  • Tecuci0.3%
  • Mehedinți0.2%
  • Muscel0.1%
  • Iași0.1%
  • Vâlcea0.1%
  • Dorohoi0.1%
  • Gorj0.1%
  • Bacău0.0%
  • Vaslui0.0%
  • Botoșani0.0%
  • Suceava0.0%
  • Roman0.0%
No black tick = the 1908 table prints a dash for millet in that county. S29, S242.

Area does not say what was eaten. In 1892 wheat covered 1,496,072 ha, nearly as much as maize (1,822,443 ha), but the table does not say how much of it stayed in the village.

For the time of Constantin Brâncoveanu (1688–1714) there is no field or plate figure here. The oldest checked records are from 1742: 18 Moldavian monasteries received “bread” in merțe. At Putna the source names wheat, mălai and păpușoi (maize), at Neamț wheat and mălai, in the other 16 only “bread” (S113, a 1962 article after a 1915 edition). Maize therefore appears as early as 1742, and by 1850 it ruled the fields of Moldavia. The data do not show when it arrived.

The bread that displaced maize: Osoi, 1933–1935

The doctors of Tomești chose 22 families in Osoi, Iași county, 20 of them with at least one pellagra case, and logged daily what went into the pot. Between 8 April and 21 June 1934 the study handed out bread. Maize fell from 74% to 25% of calories, while the total stayed nearly the same: 3,941 kcal in period I, 3,995 in period IV.

  • maize: 74.3%everything else: 25.7%I · 74.3%Christmas fast
    30 Nov–24 Dec 1933
    3,941 kcal
  • maize: 68.8%everything else: 31.2%II · 68.8%Christmas and Carnival
    25 Dec 1933–18 Feb 1934
    3,657 kcal
  • maize: 74.9%everything else: 25.1%III · 74.9%Lent
    19 Feb–28 Mar 1934
    3,886 kcal
  • maize: 25.4%everything else: 74.6%IV · 25.4%Easter and after
    8 Apr–3 Jun 1934
    3,995 kcal
  • maize: 30.2%everything else: 69.8%V · 30.2%St Peter’s fast
    4–21 Jun 1934
    4,090 kcal
  • maize: 66.6%everything else: 33.4%VI · 66.6%autumn and winter
    Nov 1934–Feb 1935
    3,445 kcal

Maize flour: 762 g per unit per day in period I, 276 g in IV. Black bread: 43 g in I, 745 g in IV and 760 g in V. Sugar stayed small: between 1.3 and 9.7 g a day.

Weight of food per consumption unit per day, by group

I1,272 g
II1,191 g
III1,229 g
IV1,623 g
V1,819 g
VI1,165 g

maize (flour)bread and wheat flourbeans, vegetables, potatoesmilk, cheese, eggsmeatfruitfats, oil, sugarwine and spiritsrice, noodles

Periods IV and V (highlighted) are those with bread handed out. Period VI pools three separate windows. Wine and spirits are in grams of drink. Table 53, S40 p. 187.
g / unit / dayIIIIIIIVVVI
Maize flour762645773276350563
Black bread43392574576030
Milk11161917921732
Meat34.193.913.468.957.2102.9
Beans862587191548
Fresh fruit0.80.30.127.4220.09.0
Wine7811121398144
Sugar1.63.43.09.71.33.3

What does not follow: that bread cured or prevented pellagra, or that the whole village ate this way. The families were chosen by doctors, received bread for taking part, and the calories are the authors’ calculations per consumption unit.

28 years earlier: Arsura and Epureni, 1906

In a village in Fălciu, Nicolae Lupu counted 40 families, 150 adult equivalents, over a whole year: 1,000 g of maize flour a day, alongside 800 g of sour soup (borș) and 250 g of wine. At Epureni, in the same county, he observed five families of 19 adults directly for two winter days. Lupu himself warns that families may have exaggerated, and the list adds up to 2,588 g, not the 2,558 g he gives as the total.

gArsura, the year’s averageEpureni, two winter days
Maize flour1,000578
Barley flour50315
Sour soup (borș)800—
Wine250—
Potatoes65—
Meat, including fish40—
Milk20—
Sauerkraut—211
Sugar1—

S34, pp. 221–224 (pages checked against the scan). Grams per adult equivalent per day; the methods differ from Osoi’s, so the figures are not comparable gram for gram.

A week of meals in Bârsești

In late summer 1938 a team of students logged, in three households in northern Vrancea, what was eaten in the morning, at lunch and in the evening, seven days running. Polenta appears in 40 of the 63 meals; 15 say “nothing”, all in the morning. The families knew they would be visited and cooked better than usual.

Well-off household · 3 people26 August – 1 September · printed text, translated
Friday26 August
  • morningnothing
  • lunchbean soup; cheese with polenta
  • eveningpotato sour soup (borș) and fried green beans (polenta)
Saturday27 August
  • morningnothing
  • lunchsour soup (borș) and roast chicken with polenta
  • eveningcheese with polenta; fried eggs
Sunday28 August
  • morningnothing
  • lunchroast chicken with garlic; polenta
  • eveningcheese; roast pork (bread)
Monday29 August
  • morningnothing
  • lunchfried green beans with polenta
  • eveningfasting pilaf with polenta
Tuesday30 August
  • morningnothing
  • lunchegg jumări; cheese (inferior quality) with polenta
  • eveningcheese with polenta
Wednesday31 August
  • morningnothing
  • lunchbean soup with polenta
  • eveningsalted fish in brine; polenta with cheese (the quality leaves much to be desired)
Thursday1 September
  • morningnothing
  • lunchcheese with polenta, fried eggs (3 eggs)
  • eveningchicken soup with noodles; boiled chicken with garlic, polenta
Middle household · 5 people2 September – 8 September · printed text, translated
Friday2 September
  • morningmilk with polenta (children only)
  • lunchbean soup, pickled cucumbers, polenta
  • eveningcurdled milk, cheese with polenta
Saturday3 September
  • morningmilk with polenta (children only)
  • lunchgreen-bean soup, sour milk; polenta
  • eveninggreen beans fried in oil, nettles with noodles, curdled milk, cheese
Sunday4 September
  • morningmilk with polenta (everyone)
  • lunchchicken soup and grilled chicken (1 chicken), peppers, polenta
  • eveningboiled eggs; fresh milk with polenta (poor-quality maize meal)
Monday5 September
  • morningmilk with polenta (children only)
  • lunchsour soup (borș) and roast chicken (1 chicken) with polenta
  • eveningcurdled milk and polenta with cheese
Tuesday6 September
  • morningnothing
  • lunchmushroom pilaf with pepper salad and grilled mushrooms
  • eveningboiled mushrooms with garlic and tomato salad
Wednesday7 September
  • morningmilk with polenta (the children)
  • lunchfried beans with sour pickled cucumbers
  • eveningfried potatoes with tomato salad
Thursday8 September
  • morningmilk with polenta (the children)
  • lunchchicken (1 chicken) roasted in butter with pepper salad
  • eveningsame as at lunch
Poor household · 2 people8 September – 14 September · printed text, translated
Thursday8 September
  • morningnothing
  • lunchcabbage with meat, with polenta
  • eveninggrilled sausages with inferior-quality polenta (bought at the fair)
Friday9 September
  • morningnothing
  • lunchcurdled milk with polenta (inferior-quality maize meal)
  • eveningfried green beans with polenta
Saturday10 September
  • morningnothing
  • lunchgreen-bean soup with polenta
  • eveningfish in brine (of the lowest possible quality) with polenta
Sunday11 September
  • morningnothing
  • lunchcabbage with mutton, with polenta
  • eveningfresh milk (½ kg) with polenta
Monday12 September
  • morningnothing
  • lunchboiled dried beans, with polenta
  • eveningfresh milk with polenta (½ kg)
Tuesday13 September
  • morningnothing
  • lunchgreen-bean soup with polenta
  • eveningegg jumări (2 eggs) with polenta
Wednesday14 September
  • morningnothing
  • lunchpotatoes with polenta
  • eveningegg jumări with polenta
  • Springweed sour soup (nettle, amaranth, orache) or beans soured with green fruit
  • Summergreen bean pods
  • Autumndried beans; baked or boiled pumpkin
  • Winterpork and fat when available; boiled dried fruit; boiled pumpkin; maize meal

The seasons above are the author’s generalisation, without quantities. For the first printed day the source gives 1939, but the weekdays fit 1938; 1938 is an inference, not a check. Dishes are translated from the printed Romanian; “jumări” (cracklings or fried scraps) is left as the source writes it. S163, pp. 149–152. Polenta and maize meal are highlighted.

Pellagra: what the figures show and what they do not

Pellagra appears when the diet is dominated by maize and niacin (vitamin B3) is lacking; doctors of the time already tied it to polenta. The surviving figures cannot show that link: they are cases reported by doctors, with no population to set them against.

  • 38 / 1,126pellagra patients among those treated at the hospital at Nemțu between June 1877 and January 1878 (S159)
  • 7,531 → 17,912cases registered in the Kingdom, 1895 and 1896. The jump coincides with a change in how cases were counted in 1896 (S32)
  • 2,246cases and 55 deaths reported in 1940 in Neamț county, across 58 localities (S75)

Cases reported in 1940, by locality, Neamț county

  • Calu Iapa186
  • Podoleni117
  • Petricani103
  • General Averescu94
  • Păstrăveni89
  • Dumbrava Roșie81
  • Zănești74
  • Ștefan-cel-Mare73
  • Cândești60
  • Români59
  • Roznov58
  • Crăcăoai57
  • Vânătorii Neamțului57
  • Bodeștii-Precista56
  • Războeni56
  • Dragomirești50
  • Costișa50
  • Mărgineni47
  • Rediu45
  • Țibucani43
  • Hangu36
  • Dochia36
  • Piatra-Neamț36
  • Bălțătești34
  • Vasile Conta34
  • Târgu-Neamț34
  • Ghigoiești32
  • Pipirig31
  • Girov31
  • Bârgăoani31
  • Tazlău29
  • Filioara28
  • Slobozia28
  • Dobreni27
  • Răucești27
  • Bălănești27
  • Borlești27
  • Călugăreni26
  • Grumăzești26
  • Negrești25
  • Gârcina21
  • Galu20
  • Buhuși20
  • Buhalnița19
  • Bicaz18
  • Pângarați13
  • Căciulești12
  • Ciahlău11
  • Tarcău10
  • Farcașa9
  • Borca8
  • Bistricioara6
  • Bistrița6
  • Tașca5
  • Vaduri5
  • Mădei2
  • Broșteni1
  • Crucea—

1 localities print a dash instead of a figure; a dash does not mean zero. The list includes towns. The original register, each locality’s population and the diagnostic criterion are missing, so the figures cannot be compared between localities or with the maize sown. S75, pp. 111–114.

What cannot be claimed

  • A particular ancestor’s menu. No source ties a present-day family to a plate of that time.
  • The year maize overtook millet. The oldest area figures are from 1850, when the change had already happened.
  • A calorie table by decade. There are seven plates with calorie shares, between 1931 and 1938, plus grams logged in 1906 and in the 1930s.
  • That nothing survives between 1742 and 1849. Only that nothing was checked against a scan here. There are leads: 1837 tax registers from Ialomița and estate accounts of 1817–1828, read only as indexed text.
  • Maize as the sole cause of pellagra, from the figures here. The cases are reported, with no population to set them against.
  • Brâncoveanu’s time. The court accounts of 1694–1704 exist, but were not read for this page.
  • Sunflower oil on the plate. Sunflower area rose from 672 ha in 1910 to 200,000 ha in 1938, according to a 2014 scientific article (S11). The Osoi table lists only “untdelemn” (oil), between 0.4 and 10 g a day, without saying from what.
  • Zero. A dash in a printed table means the figure is missing. The 1911 table for millet does not match its own totals and was left out.
  • Monastery accounts as peasant meals. The 1742 and 1849–1850 accounts belong to institutions.

Map: REGIS county polygons for 1879–1913, a modern reconstruction (CC BY 4.0), simplified. The distances in “Your county” run from the polygon’s centre to the record’s point, rounded to 10 km. Hollow dots are county or region centres, not villages. The figures come from printed tables and may carry their errors; the scans are not republished here. The place search uses GeoNames positions: falling inside a historical polygon is a map fact, not proof about that village.

Words from the sources
  • mămăligă: thick porridge of meal, today almost always maize (polenta); in Ialomița in 1895 also made of millet.
  • mălai: today, maize flour; in Lupu (1906), “maize flour (malai)”; in the 1892 agricultural table, “meiu (malaiu)” is millet. The meaning depends on the source.
  • păpușoi, popușoi: maize.
  • merță: a grain measure used in Moldavia; the sources do not convert it, and it is not converted here.
  • falce: a Moldavian land measure, in the Putna and Dorohoi tables; the shares in the chart do not depend on it.
  • borș: sour soup; in the sources here, made with weeds, beans or potatoes.
  • chisăliță: stewed fruit, eaten with polenta.
  • jumări de ouă: a dish of eggs and fat; the source does not explain it.
  • consumption unit: adult equivalent: each person counts as a fraction of an adult man, by age and sex, so an average can be taken.
Sources