Romanian village food · surviving figures from 1742 to 1942
By 1850 maize already ruled the fields of Moldavia. What the village ate afterwards was weighed only a handful of times
In Putna in 1850, maize covered almost 70 times more land than millet; only on the south-eastern plain did millet hold on much longer. What reached the plate was weighed only from 1906, in a few villages and regions. All of it is below: on a table, on the map of the 32 counties of 1892, and in one week in Bârsești.
- 6.1%of the land sown with maize or millet in 1892 was millet
- 74% → 25%of calories came from maize in Osoi, before and after families were given bread (1934)
- 63meals logged in three households in Bârsești, in 1938
What went into the pot, to scale
Each object’s area is proportional to the printed grams per consumption unit per day. Flour is flour, not polenta.
Osoi, period I: Christmas fast
30 Nov–24 Dec 1933
3,941 kcal per consumption unit per day; 74.3% of calories came from maize.
S40, table 53, p. 187 (Osoi, 22 families chosen by doctors); S34, pp. 221–224 (Arsura). A printed dash is a missing value, not zero. Wine and sour soup are in grams of liquid.
What survives on the table, 1700–1950
measured households or samplesdescriptions, rations and institutional accounts
cereals: bread, polentaother cereals (wheat, barley, rye)meat and other animal productsmilk productsvegetables and fruitfruitbeans, peas, potatoesanimal fatsvegetable fatssweetsalcoholeverything else
Osoi, winter 1933
Osoi, Iași county, 30 November–24 December 1933 (Christmas fast). 3,941 kcal per consumption unit per day; 74.3% of calories came from maize.
- maize · 74.3%
- everything else · 25.7%
Families chosen by doctors, 20 of 22 with at least one pellagra case. Calories are the authors’ calculations per consumption unit, not per person. The “everything else” part is not broken down in the table. Source: S40.
Each plate shows how a household or a region split its calories, by the authors’ calculations. Other sources give grams or lists of dishes, not shares: they are on the ruler, without a plate.
Your county: pick where your family came from
The map shows the 32 counties of the Kingdom in 1879–1913. Click a county or pick it from the list: you see what was sown there in 1892 and what was written about the table there, or about the nearest table described.
Colour: millet’s share of land sown with maize or millet, 1891–1892. Circles are villages named by sources, at approximate positions; diamonds are a county or region centre. The grey outline shows Romania in 1926–1939, so places outside the Kingdom of that date sit on land.
Pick a county on the map or from the list.
Table of all 32 counties
| County (historical) | Maize 1892, ha | Wheat 1892, ha | Millet 1892, ha | Millet, % of maize+millet | Maize 1908, ha | Millet 1908, ha | Below 1.54 m, 1879–83 | p. 1892 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Argeș | 57,899 | 31,745 | 961 | 1.6% | 57,873 | 169 | 519 / 9,284 | 141 |
| Bacău | 48,557 | 11,611 | 18 | 0.0% | 49,476 | — | 190 / 8,300 | 142 |
| Botoșani | 43,628 | 34,838 | 10 | 0.0% | 52,296 | — | 84 / 6,952 | 143 |
| Brăila | 49,922 | 42,532 | 9,044 | 15.3% | 53,375 | 3,771 | 62 / 4,007 | 144 |
| Buzău | 66,027 | 47,202 | 5,009 | 7.0% | 78,601 | 3,279 | 271 / 8,917 | 145 |
| Constanța | 24,694 | 38,421 | 31,449 | 56.0% | 58,937 | 13,041 | — | 146 |
| Covurlui | 48,166 | 20,040 | 1,245 | 2.5% | 49,223 | 549 | 132 / 4,530 | 147 |
| Dolj | 143,000 | 148,027 | 704 | 0.5% | 176,615 | 205 | 822 / 18,268 | 149 |
| Dorohoi | 46,934 | 31,956 | 27 | 0.1% | 53,904 | — | 92 / 5,272 | 150 |
| Dâmbovița | 59,515 | 35,870 | 482 | 0.8% | 58,420 | 721 | 289 / 9,340 | 148 |
| Fălciu | 36,934 | 12,940 | 205 | 0.6% | 35,371 | 91 | 58 / 3,824 | 151 |
| Gorj | 50,670 | 11,107 | 29 | 0.1% | 52,199 | 5 | 463 / 8,323 | 152 |
| Ialomița | 90,292 | 126,877 | 31,737 | 26.0% | 105,521 | 16,281 | 129 / 6,619 | 153 |
| Iași | 41,049 | 25,027 | 35 | 0.1% | 55,523 | 113 | 224 / 7,572 | 154 |
| Ilfov | 95,876 | 123,090 | 18,891 | 16.5% | 104,157 | 6,004 | 458 / 14,081 | 155 |
| Mehedinți | 89,432 | 73,056 | 214 | 0.2% | 95,516 | — | 605 / 9,923 | 156 |
| Muscel | 18,044 | 1,188 | 26 | 0.1% | 16,885 | 79 | 311 / 4,345 | 157 |
| Neamț | 32,105 | 11,662 | 192 | 0.6% | 29,438 | 30 | 156 | 158 |
| Olt | 66,311 | 70,535 | 328 | 0.5% | 68,784 | 113 | 138 / 5,521 | 159 |
| Prahova | 58,781 | 38,841 | 1,773 | 2.9% | 60,807 | 1,168 | 353 / 11,640 | 160 |
| Putna | 32,969 | 9,965 | 147 | 0.4% | 38,763 | 43 | 158 / 4,219 | 161 |
| Roman | 34,121 | 16,275 | 4 | 0.0% | 31,712 | — | 127 / 5,229 | 163 |
| Romanați | 83,643 | 104,788 | 2,296 | 2.7% | 95,566 | 706 | 191 / 8,822 | 164 |
| Râmnicu Sărat | 59,833 | 36,203 | 3,565 | 5.6% | 68,345 | 1,414 | 149 / 5,807 | 162 |
| Suceava | 28,740 | 9,269 | 7 | 0.0% | 26,437 | 1 | 94 / 4,654 | 165 |
| Tecuci | 46,110 | 19,942 | 158 | 0.3% | 50,729 | 121 | 155 / 4,367 | 166 |
| Teleorman | 111,091 | 142,601 | 1,040 | 0.9% | 128,213 | 470 | 320 / 9,081 | 167 |
| Tulcea | 16,486 | 43,357 | 4,765 | 22.4% | 29,324 | 3,511 | — | 168 |
| Tutova | 41,130 | 21,885 | 423 | 1.0% | 42,812 | 19 | 227 / 6,612 | 169 |
| Vaslui | 35,740 | 17,902 | 16 | 0.0% | 39,944 | 79 | 117 / 5,182 | 170 |
| Vlașca | 111,118 | 127,667 | 2,682 | 2.4% | 104,376 | 1,458 | 206 / 8,148 | 172 |
| Vâlcea | 53,626 | 9,653 | 48 | 0.1% | 51,173 | 20 | 468 / 9,898 | 171 |
Source: S29 (1891–1892), S242 p. 141 (1908), S31 (height, 1879–1883). Area sown, not consumption. A dash means the printed table gives no figure.
Millet did not vanish at once: it stayed on the plain
The oldest field figures in this research are from 1850, for Putna and Dorohoi. Millet then held 1.4% and 3.9% of the land sown with maize or millet. In the 1870s millet held 6–7% of the land sown with maize or millet. In 1903 it was 4%. From 1904 to 1915 it sits at 1–4%, with one exception, 1907 (6%).
In 1892 millet was a crop of the south-eastern plain. In Constanța it covered more land than maize (31,449 ha against 24,694 ha), in Ialomița 26%, and in Tulcea, Ilfov and Brăila between 15% and 22%. In 19 of the 32 counties it was below 1%.
Millet, % of land under maize or millet, 1891–1892 (bar) and 1908 (black tick)
The other 22 counties
Area does not say what was eaten. In 1892 wheat covered 1,496,072 ha, nearly as much as maize (1,822,443 ha), but the table does not say how much of it stayed in the village.
For the time of Constantin Brâncoveanu (1688–1714) there is no field or plate figure here. The oldest checked records are from 1742: 18 Moldavian monasteries received “bread” in merțe. At Putna the source names wheat, mălai and păpușoi (maize), at Neamț wheat and mălai, in the other 16 only “bread” (S113, a 1962 article after a 1915 edition). Maize therefore appears as early as 1742, and by 1850 it ruled the fields of Moldavia. The data do not show when it arrived.
The bread that displaced maize: Osoi, 1933–1935
The doctors of Tomești chose 22 families in Osoi, Iași county, 20 of them with at least one pellagra case, and logged daily what went into the pot. Between 8 April and 21 June 1934 the study handed out bread. Maize fell from 74% to 25% of calories, while the total stayed nearly the same: 3,941 kcal in period I, 3,995 in period IV.
- I · 74.3%Christmas fast
30 Nov–24 Dec 1933
3,941 kcal - II · 68.8%Christmas and Carnival
25 Dec 1933–18 Feb 1934
3,657 kcal - III · 74.9%Lent
19 Feb–28 Mar 1934
3,886 kcal - IV · 25.4%Easter and after
8 Apr–3 Jun 1934
3,995 kcal - V · 30.2%St Peter’s fast
4–21 Jun 1934
4,090 kcal - VI · 66.6%autumn and winter
Nov 1934–Feb 1935
3,445 kcal
Maize flour: 762 g per unit per day in period I, 276 g in IV. Black bread: 43 g in I, 745 g in IV and 760 g in V. Sugar stayed small: between 1.3 and 9.7 g a day.
Weight of food per consumption unit per day, by group
maize (flour)bread and wheat flourbeans, vegetables, potatoesmilk, cheese, eggsmeatfruitfats, oil, sugarwine and spiritsrice, noodles
| g / unit / day | I | II | III | IV | V | VI |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maize flour | 762 | 645 | 773 | 276 | 350 | 563 |
| Black bread | 43 | 39 | 25 | 745 | 760 | 30 |
| Milk | 11 | 16 | 19 | 179 | 217 | 32 |
| Meat | 34.1 | 93.9 | 13.4 | 68.9 | 57.2 | 102.9 |
| Beans | 86 | 25 | 87 | 19 | 15 | 48 |
| Fresh fruit | 0.8 | 0.3 | 0.1 | 27.4 | 220.0 | 9.0 |
| Wine | 78 | 111 | 21 | 39 | 8 | 144 |
| Sugar | 1.6 | 3.4 | 3.0 | 9.7 | 1.3 | 3.3 |
What does not follow: that bread cured or prevented pellagra, or that the whole village ate this way. The families were chosen by doctors, received bread for taking part, and the calories are the authors’ calculations per consumption unit.
28 years earlier: Arsura and Epureni, 1906
In a village in Fălciu, Nicolae Lupu counted 40 families, 150 adult equivalents, over a whole year: 1,000 g of maize flour a day, alongside 800 g of sour soup (borș) and 250 g of wine. At Epureni, in the same county, he observed five families of 19 adults directly for two winter days. Lupu himself warns that families may have exaggerated, and the list adds up to 2,588 g, not the 2,558 g he gives as the total.
| g | Arsura, the year’s average | Epureni, two winter days |
|---|---|---|
| Maize flour | 1,000 | 578 |
| Barley flour | 50 | 315 |
| Sour soup (borș) | 800 | — |
| Wine | 250 | — |
| Potatoes | 65 | — |
| Meat, including fish | 40 | — |
| Milk | 20 | — |
| Sauerkraut | — | 211 |
| Sugar | 1 | — |
S34, pp. 221–224 (pages checked against the scan). Grams per adult equivalent per day; the methods differ from Osoi’s, so the figures are not comparable gram for gram.
A week of meals in Bârsești
In late summer 1938 a team of students logged, in three households in northern Vrancea, what was eaten in the morning, at lunch and in the evening, seven days running. Polenta appears in 40 of the 63 meals; 15 say “nothing”, all in the morning. The families knew they would be visited and cooked better than usual.
- morningnothing
- lunchbean soup; cheese with polenta
- eveningpotato sour soup (borș) and fried green beans (polenta)
- morningnothing
- lunchsour soup (borș) and roast chicken with polenta
- eveningcheese with polenta; fried eggs
- morningnothing
- lunchroast chicken with garlic; polenta
- eveningcheese; roast pork (bread)
- morningnothing
- lunchfried green beans with polenta
- eveningfasting pilaf with polenta
- morningnothing
- lunchegg jumări; cheese (inferior quality) with polenta
- eveningcheese with polenta
- morningnothing
- lunchbean soup with polenta
- eveningsalted fish in brine; polenta with cheese (the quality leaves much to be desired)
- morningnothing
- lunchcheese with polenta, fried eggs (3 eggs)
- eveningchicken soup with noodles; boiled chicken with garlic, polenta
- morningmilk with polenta (children only)
- lunchbean soup, pickled cucumbers, polenta
- eveningcurdled milk, cheese with polenta
- morningmilk with polenta (children only)
- lunchgreen-bean soup, sour milk; polenta
- eveninggreen beans fried in oil, nettles with noodles, curdled milk, cheese
- morningmilk with polenta (everyone)
- lunchchicken soup and grilled chicken (1 chicken), peppers, polenta
- eveningboiled eggs; fresh milk with polenta (poor-quality maize meal)
- morningmilk with polenta (children only)
- lunchsour soup (borș) and roast chicken (1 chicken) with polenta
- eveningcurdled milk and polenta with cheese
- morningnothing
- lunchmushroom pilaf with pepper salad and grilled mushrooms
- eveningboiled mushrooms with garlic and tomato salad
- morningmilk with polenta (the children)
- lunchfried beans with sour pickled cucumbers
- eveningfried potatoes with tomato salad
- morningmilk with polenta (the children)
- lunchchicken (1 chicken) roasted in butter with pepper salad
- eveningsame as at lunch
- morningnothing
- lunchcabbage with meat, with polenta
- eveninggrilled sausages with inferior-quality polenta (bought at the fair)
- morningnothing
- lunchcurdled milk with polenta (inferior-quality maize meal)
- eveningfried green beans with polenta
- morningnothing
- lunchgreen-bean soup with polenta
- eveningfish in brine (of the lowest possible quality) with polenta
- morningnothing
- lunchcabbage with mutton, with polenta
- eveningfresh milk (½ kg) with polenta
- morningnothing
- lunchboiled dried beans, with polenta
- eveningfresh milk with polenta (½ kg)
- morningnothing
- lunchgreen-bean soup with polenta
- eveningegg jumări (2 eggs) with polenta
- morningnothing
- lunchpotatoes with polenta
- eveningegg jumări with polenta
- Springweed sour soup (nettle, amaranth, orache) or beans soured with green fruit
- Summergreen bean pods
- Autumndried beans; baked or boiled pumpkin
- Winterpork and fat when available; boiled dried fruit; boiled pumpkin; maize meal
The seasons above are the author’s generalisation, without quantities. For the first printed day the source gives 1939, but the weekdays fit 1938; 1938 is an inference, not a check. Dishes are translated from the printed Romanian; “jumări” (cracklings or fried scraps) is left as the source writes it. S163, pp. 149–152. Polenta and maize meal are highlighted.
Pellagra: what the figures show and what they do not
Pellagra appears when the diet is dominated by maize and niacin (vitamin B3) is lacking; doctors of the time already tied it to polenta. The surviving figures cannot show that link: they are cases reported by doctors, with no population to set them against.
- 38 / 1,126pellagra patients among those treated at the hospital at Nemțu between June 1877 and January 1878 (S159)
- 7,531 → 17,912cases registered in the Kingdom, 1895 and 1896. The jump coincides with a change in how cases were counted in 1896 (S32)
- 2,246cases and 55 deaths reported in 1940 in Neamț county, across 58 localities (S75)
Cases reported in 1940, by locality, Neamț county
1 localities print a dash instead of a figure; a dash does not mean zero. The list includes towns. The original register, each locality’s population and the diagnostic criterion are missing, so the figures cannot be compared between localities or with the maize sown. S75, pp. 111–114.
What cannot be claimed
- A particular ancestor’s menu. No source ties a present-day family to a plate of that time.
- The year maize overtook millet. The oldest area figures are from 1850, when the change had already happened.
- A calorie table by decade. There are seven plates with calorie shares, between 1931 and 1938, plus grams logged in 1906 and in the 1930s.
- That nothing survives between 1742 and 1849. Only that nothing was checked against a scan here. There are leads: 1837 tax registers from Ialomița and estate accounts of 1817–1828, read only as indexed text.
- Maize as the sole cause of pellagra, from the figures here. The cases are reported, with no population to set them against.
- Brâncoveanu’s time. The court accounts of 1694–1704 exist, but were not read for this page.
- Sunflower oil on the plate. Sunflower area rose from 672 ha in 1910 to 200,000 ha in 1938, according to a 2014 scientific article (S11). The Osoi table lists only “untdelemn” (oil), between 0.4 and 10 g a day, without saying from what.
- Zero. A dash in a printed table means the figure is missing. The 1911 table for millet does not match its own totals and was left out.
- Monastery accounts as peasant meals. The 1742 and 1849–1850 accounts belong to institutions.
Map: REGIS county polygons for 1879–1913, a modern reconstruction (CC BY 4.0), simplified. The distances in “Your county” run from the polygon’s centre to the record’s point, rounded to 10 km. Hollow dots are county or region centres, not villages. The figures come from printed tables and may carry their errors; the scans are not republished here. The place search uses GeoNames positions: falling inside a historical polygon is a map fact, not proof about that village.
Words from the sources
- mămăligă: thick porridge of meal, today almost always maize (polenta); in Ialomița in 1895 also made of millet.
- mălai: today, maize flour; in Lupu (1906), “maize flour (malai)”; in the 1892 agricultural table, “meiu (malaiu)” is millet. The meaning depends on the source.
- păpușoi, popușoi: maize.
- merță: a grain measure used in Moldavia; the sources do not convert it, and it is not converted here.
- falce: a Moldavian land measure, in the Putna and Dorohoi tables; the shares in the chart do not depend on it.
- borș: sour soup; in the sources here, made with weeds, beans or potatoes.
- chisăliță: stewed fruit, eaten with polenta.
- jumări de ouă: a dish of eggs and fat; the source does not explain it.
- consumption unit: adult equivalent: each person counts as a fraction of an adult man, by age and sex, so an average can be taken.
Sources
- S01Gheorghe Crăiniceanu, Igiena țăranului român, 1895
- S19Ion Ionescu de la Brad, Agricultura română din județiulu Dorohoiu, 1866
- S29Buletin statistic general al României, III, 1895: Statistica agricolă pentru 1891–1892, tabelele 7 și 20
- S32Iacob Felix, Istoria igienei în România în secolul al XIX-lea, I, 1901
- S37Ion Ionescu de la Brad, Agricultura română din județul Putna, 1869
- S40Slătineanu, Bălteanu, Alexa, Plasa sanitară rurală de demonstrație Tomești: cinci ani de activitate, 1936
- S05Henri H. Stahl (ed.), Nerej, un village d’une région archaïque, I, 1939
- S11Stan et al., studiu asupra plantelor oleaginoase, Notulae Botanicae Horti Agrobotanici, 2014 (sursă secundară)
- S34Nicolae Lupu, Alimentația țăranului, Viața Românească, 1906, pp. 217–240
- S41Charles H. Laugier, Sănătatea în Dolj: monografie sanitară, 1910
- S65M. Hârsu, Fragmente din raportul unui medic de plasă, circumscripția V Muntele, Suceava, 1898 (tipărit 1899)
- S75Gh. Verșescu, Monografia comunei Tarcău, județul Neamț, 1942, pp. 111–114 și 246–248
- S90P. Râmneanțu, C. Anghelescu, Problema alimentelor protectoare în alimentația țăranilor din România, Buletin eugenic și biopolitic, 1946
- S91P. Râmneanțu, Starea de nutriție și alimentația țăranilor din trei comune ale județului Caraș, Buletin eugenic și biopolitic, 1937
- S107Cosmin Niță, Două sămi ale mănăstirii Secu din anii 1845–1846 și 1849–1850, Cercetări istorice, 2019
- S113N. Corivan, I. Grămadă, Despre gospodăria feudală din Moldova în prima jumătate a secolului al XVIII-lea, Studii și materiale de istorie medie V, 1962
- S159Constantin I. Istrati, O pagină din istoria contimporană a României din punctul de videre medical, economic și național, 1880
- S162Tiriung, Dobre, Coman, Stoeșești: un sat cu moșie boerească din Tutova, în 60 sate românești IV, 1943
- S163Iolanda Nicoară, Bârsești: un sat răzășesc din nordul Vrancei, în 60 sate românești IV, 1943, pp. 131–179
- S197Xenia C. Costa-Foru, Cercetarea monografică a familiei, 1945
- S239Carpenter, Lewin, A Reexamination of the Composition of Diets Associated with Pellagra, Journal of Nutrition 115, 1985
- S241C. I. Băicoianu, Ce înțelegem prin politică comercială?, 1908, p. 10
- S242Anuarul statistic al României, 1908, pp. 140–141
- S255Anuarul statistic al României, 1915–1916, pp. 26–29
- S31Thoma Gugea, Contribuțiune la studiul taliei soldatului român, doctoral thesis, 1888, foldout table: young men examined in 1879–1883, by county.
- GeoNamesPopulated places of Romania and the Republic of Moldova, GeoNames, CC BY 4.0.
- REGISSchweikart, Martí-Henneberg, Pieper, Morillas-Torné, Schulte, Regional European Geographic Information System (REGIS), 1870–2020, 2026, Romanian county polygons 1879–1913, CC BY 4.0.