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The Genoese road, 1261–1484

Who paid for medieval Moldavia?

For two centuries the road from Lviv to the Black Sea carried wax, furs, silk and slaves – and its tolls later enriched an already-founded Moldavian principality. Follow the merchants from the Genoese factories to the Ottoman guns of 1484.

6,000 houses inside one Caffa wallper Schiltberger's count · the largest city in Crimea

Akkerman in 1770: the earliest known view of the fortress that guarded the road's sea end. 1770 engraving, Russian archive · Wikimedia Commons
Representative routes: the sea link, the toll road, the 1484 advance
Map of the Genoese road ConstantinopleCaffaCetatea AlbăLvivChernivtsiSuceavaIașiCetatea AlbăChiliaConstantinopleChiliaCetatea Albă

Representative route

The routes on the map are representative, drawn through the verified places of the trade.

From Lviv to Caffa

In 1261 Genoa won the Black Sea and opened its factories along the shores. The road from Lviv toward them crossed lands that would become Moldavia; only after the principality was founded did tolls such as Suceava's, fixed by the 1408 privilege, fill its treasury: tolls at Suceava, ships at Cetatea Albă, slaves at Caffa. For two centuries the factories, the toll and the assault took their turns on the same road – and its trace is still visible today.

Chapter I

The factories

1261 – 1359 · 1261–1359, Genoa's Black Sea

Chapter
1261 – 1359
Nymphaeum
1261
Caffa founded
1275
Caffa falls
1475

In 1261 the Treaty of Nymphaeum gave Genoa the run of the Black Sea, and its factors fanned out along the shores to open counting-houses: Caffa on the Crimean coast from 1275, a Danube factory at Vicina, an exclave at Maurocastro – a Tatar city, but ruled by the Genoese.

Caffa grew into the largest city in Crimea and Genoa's main Black Sea naval base. Furs and wax came down from Rus', grain, leather, fish and salt from the steppes, spices, incense and silks from the Orient – and slaves, Tatar captives, a growing commodity. Vicina, their Danube port before Kilia rose, was already declining by the mid-fourteenth century; its site has never been found.

Kaffa in 1856, drawn by Carlo Bossoli: the Genoese city become a Crimean port. Carlo Bossoli / Edmund Walker, 1856 · Wikimedia Commons
The Genoese fortress of Soldaia at Sudak, painted by Karl von Kügelgen in 1824. Karl von Kügelgen, 1824 · Wikimedia Commons

The Bavarian Schiltberger, escaping captivity, saw Caffa at its height: a city by the Black Sea, ringed by two walls, with six thousand houses of Italians, Greeks and Armenians inside one of them. The road that fed it ran west, through the lands that would become Moldavia.

A city called Kaffa, which lies by the Black Sea, and is surrounded by two walls. Within one wall are six thousand houses, in which are Italians, Greeks, and Armenians; it is a chief city on the Black Sea...

Johann Schiltberger, The Bondage and Travels of Johann Schiltberger (Telfer transl., Hakluyt, 1879), ch. 36

Meanwhile Vicina, once the most flourishing Danube port of the Genoese, is lost: its exact site is still debated.

Chapter II

The toll

1359 – 1457 · 1359–1457, the principality cashes in

Chapter
1359 – 1457
The privilege
October 1408
Suceava tolls
silk and pepper
Chilia attacked
1420

In October 1408, at the Suceava toll, the prince's men had nearly finished weighing the silk bales and pepper sacks on the wagons from Lviv: Alexander the Good had granted the merchants regulated free trade across Moldavia, with fixed customs posts from Cernăuți to Cetatea Albă. Half a century earlier Moldavia had only just hardened into a principality, when Bogdan I seized in 1359 the Hungarian border march founded under Dragoș after the Tatars' defeat of 1345 – and the princes had seen at once what crossed their land.

The 1408 deeds name Baia, Roman and Bacău among the road's towns; Iași itself is first mentioned in an official document here, in Alexander's grant. Suceava became the main toll centre for silk and pepper, with a Lviv merchants' warehouse confirmed in 1456 and 1460 – and the prince strengthened the ports and the forts guarding the Poland road.

Cantemir's map of Moldavia (1771): Suceava, Iași and Ackerman on the old road. Dimitrie Cantemir, 1771 · Wikimedia Commons
The Catalan Atlas (1375): the Black Sea as the Genoese knew it. Abraham Cresques, 1375 · Wikimedia Commons

Travellers walked it both ways. Schiltberger came home in 1427 by Kilia, the White City, Suceava, Lviv and Kraków; ten years later the Castilian Pero Tafur stood in Kaffa's slave market, where sellers stripped men and women to the skin and walked them up and down – and bought three slaves himself. In 1420 the Ottomans attacked Chilia.

I separated from my companions and joined some merchants, and went with them to a city called in German the White City [Cetatea Albă], then to Sedschoff [Suceava], Limburgch [Lviv], Krackow.

Johann Schiltberger (Telfer transl., 1879), ch. 67; identifications added

In this city they sell more slaves, both male and female, than anywhere else in the world... The sellers make the slaves strip to the skin, males as well as females... and make them walk up and down to show whether they have any bodily defect.

Pero Tafur, Travels and Adventures 1435–1439 (Letts transl., 1926), ch. XVI

Meanwhile Bacău is named in the 1408 privilege itself.

Chapter III

The assault

1457 – 1486 · 1457–1486, Stephen's wars

Chapter
1457 – 1486
Chilia taken
23 January 1465
Lipnic
20 August 1470
The ports lost
1484

In January 1465, in the frost, Stephen's host closed around Chilia and took it from the Hungarians on the night of 23 January, the chronicles say – after a fruitless siege in 1462, in which he had been wounded. In 1470 he crushed a Tatar raid at Lipnic, freeing its captives; and he refused to cede Chilia and Cetatea Albă to the sultan.

The answer came in 1484. Bayezid II struck the two port-forts: his fleet found the Danube channel above Chilia impassable and the cannon were dragged through mud, but after days of bombardment Chilia surrendered in July; the guns went on by sea to Cetatea Albă, which fell in August despite its Polish and German mercenaries. Hadim Ali Pasha raided as far as Suceava to cover the withdrawal.

Cetatea Albă in 1856, drawn by A. Uvarov: the fortress Stephen lost. A. Uvarov, 1856 · Wikimedia Commons
Akkerman in 1770: the earliest known view of the fortress. 1770 engraving, Russian archive · Wikimedia Commons

Stephen fought on – winning at Cătlăbuga in November 1485 and at Șcheia in March 1486 – but the forts stayed lost, and the treaty of 1486 confirmed them Ottoman, with tribute resumed and Moldavian autonomy preserved. The Genoese age on this shore was over; Caffa itself had fallen in 1475.

Meanwhile The 1486 treaty kept Moldavia autonomous – minus its two ports.

Chapter IV

The trace

1486 – 1940 · 1486–1940, what stayed

Chapter
1486 – 1940
Akkerman register
1505
Towers standing
26
The museum
1940

In 1505 an Ottoman clerk was entering the arriving ships and the paid duties into the Akkerman register: the road had not died with the forts. The Ottoman registers of Caffa (1492) and Akkerman (1505) show shipping and duties continuing, and the Moldavian road – ports, Iași, Suceava, Lviv – stayed the land link of the sea trade, now under new masters.

The stones stayed too. The fortress stands at Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi on the Dniester estuary, 26 towers still up, on UNESCO's tentative list as Tyras–Bilhorod, 'on the way from the Black Sea to the Baltic Sea'. The town museum – founded in 1934 by the Encyclopedia of Ukraine's account, in 1940 by others – covers the Greek layers to the modern ones.

Feodosia in 1794, engraved by Geissler: Caffa in ruins, a decade after annexation. G. H. Geissler, 1794 · Wikimedia Commons
Fra Mauro's world map, c.1450: the greatest medieval picture of the world, with the Black Sea trade zone. Fra Mauro, c.1450 (1806 copy) · Wikimedia Commons

The road's trace runs through Moldavia's towns – Baia, Roman, Bacău, Iași, first named in its charters – and through its maps: Cantemir's 1771 Tabula marks Suceava and Ackerman on the same line the Lviv merchants walked.

Meanwhile The fortress's wartime visiting status could not be verified.

At the Suceava toll

Four wagons held at the toll: the toll, the factories, the end. Choose, then check against the sources.

  1. 1

    Wagon 1 of 4

    The privilege

    In 1408 Alexander the Good granted Lviv merchants:

    What happened

    Regulated free trade. Fixed customs posts from Cernăuți to Cetatea Albă, a warehouse at Suceava – and tolls that filled the prince's coffers.

  2. 2

    Wagon 2 of 4

    Caffa

    The Genoese lost Caffa in:

    What happened

    1475. The Ottoman conquest ended two centuries of Genoese rule; Chilia and Cetatea Albă followed nine years later.

  3. 3

    Wagon 3 of 4

    The ports

    Stephen lost Chilia and Cetatea Albă in:

    What happened

    1484. Chilia in July, Cetatea Albă in August; his wins of 1485 and 1486 never recovered them.

  4. 4

    Wagon 4 of 4

    The end

    The road died with the forts in 1484:

    What happened

    False. The Caffa (1492) and Akkerman (1505) registers show the duties continuing on the same road.

Seven plates from the road

Seven period views and maps, in the order of the road: the fortress twice, Caffa, the sea charts, Moldavia mapped, the steppe's dictionary.

  1. Plate 1856The fortress drawn
    A. Uvarov, 1856 · Wikimedia Commons
    • Cetatea Albă in 1856, drawn by A. Uvarov: ditches, walls and towers from the land side.
    • The stone fortress is Moldavian work – enlarged in 1407, its main elements raised by 1440, 34 towers.
    • The Ottomans added their own layer: the Kili gate, the minaret.
  2. Plate 1770The earliest view
    1770 engraving, Russian archive · Wikimedia Commons
    • Akkerman in 1770: the earliest known view of the fortress, from a Russian archive.
    • The Dniester estuary below; the citadel and the outer walls above it.
    • 26 towers still stand today.
  3. Plate 1788Caffa in ruins
    De la Traverse, 1788 · Wikimedia Commons
    • Caffa in 1788, drawn by De la Traverse: Genoese walls five years after the Russian annexation.
    • At its height the city held two walls and, by Schiltberger's count, 6,000 houses.
    • The slave market Tafur described stood somewhere below these walls.
  4. Plate 1375The sea as Genoa knew it
    Abraham Cresques, 1375 · Wikimedia Commons
    • The Catalan Atlas of 1375, by Abraham Cresques: the Black Sea trade zone in portolan style.
    • Drawn while Vicina flourished and Caffa grew – the road's first century.
    • Maurocastro and the Danube mouths sit at its western edge.
  5. Plate 1771Moldavia mapped
    Dimitrie Cantemir, 1771 · Wikimedia Commons
    • Cantemir's Tabula Geographica Moldaviae, printed Frankfurt and Leipzig, 1771.
    • Suceava, Iași and Ackerman stand on the old road's line – the catalogue's Cantemir page tells the map's story.
    • The only period map naming the road's Moldavian towns.
  6. Plate c.1450The world in 1450
    Fra Mauro, c.1450 (1806 copy) · Wikimedia Commons
    • Fra Mauro's world map, c.1450, in an 1806 copy: the greatest medieval picture of the world.
    • The Black Sea fills its corner – Caffa, Tana, the roads to Cathay.
    • Drawn a generation before the Ottomans closed the Genoese sea.
  7. Plate 1300sThe steppe's dictionary
    Unknown author, medieval manuscript · Wikimedia Commons
    • Codex Cumanicus, fourteenth century: a merchant's handbook to the Cuman language of the steppe.
    • Latin, Persian and Cuman side by side – the road's working languages.
    • Compiled for men like the Genoese factors of Caffa.

Views and maps via Wikimedia Commons (all public domain). Dates are the works' own.

The road in six numbers

Every figure comes from the cited histories and the travellers' own books. Disputed figures stay out.

26 towers still standing

the fortress counted 34 towers by 1440 · three in four still stand

1,261
Nymphaeum gives Genoa the Black Sea
6,000
houses inside one Caffa wall, per Schiltberger
34
towers of Cetatea Albă by 1440
1,484
Chilia and Cetatea Albă fall
26
towers still standing
1,940
the town museum opens, by local accounts

Three things people get wrong

  1. Trade founded Moldavia

    False: trade predates and enriched the principality, it did not found it. Moldavia began as a Hungarian border march under Dragoș after the Tatars' 1345 defeat; Bogdan I seized it in 1359. The Genoese emporium and the Dniester route are older – Alexander's 1408 privilege monetized them.

  2. The Genoese built Cetatea Albă

    Partly false: the factory was Genoese, the fortress is Moldavian. Genoa held Maurocastro as a trading exclave; the stone walls were enlarged in 1407 and raised to 34 towers by 1440, under Stephen II – the Fedorko plate says so. The Ottomans added the Kili gate and the minaret.

  3. The road died in 1484

    False: 1484 crippled Moldavia, not the trade. The Ottoman registers of Caffa (1492) and Akkerman (1505) record continuing shipping and duties, and the Moldavian road – ports, Iași, Suceava, Lviv – stayed the sea trade's land link.

Sources and methods

Schiltberger is quoted from the Telfer Hakluyt translation of 1879 (public domain, via Gutenberg); Tafur from the Letts translation of 1926 (public domain). The Romanian renderings are our own.

Disputed dates are given the way the sources can carry them: the privilege as October 1408, Chilia as July 1484, Cetatea Albă as August 1484. The lone 1487 fall date is rejected as an outlier.

Toll rates, honey cargoes, Lannoy's visit and the Tighina staging post are all plausible and all unverified here – so none is claimed.

Images